Another fabulous entry in the pantheon of Bulova Accutron watches -- this is the "Deep Sea." We have only had three of these in our roughly 45 years in business, and its easy to see why collectors love it! Made in 1969, it is the epitome of a manly and progressive wristwatch that contained cutting edge technology of the time.
The story of the Accutron is that in the 1960s the US government wanted to keep this technology out of the hands of the Russians, so they asked Bulova to keep it secret, since we were using this very accurate timekeeper in our space program. The informational pamphlet that Bulova put out to introduce this new technology to jewelers and watchmakers has a space age, cutting edge look (for the day). In the pamphlet, it is explained that the minutes are parsed into 300 discrete segments, and the "ticking" is caused by the vibrations of a small tuning fork at the heart of the movement, powered by a battery and electric circuit. Bulova advertised it as the "Watch that Hums", as you can hear the vibration if you press the watch to your ear! This is an electro-mechanical movement, created before the invention of the now-ubiquitous quartz movements.
Heading into the '70s, the general public was very much into "tool" watches and Bulova made this very interesting dive watch to meet the demand. What's special about this one is the larger size of this "divers" case and black and red "Coke" bi-directional bezel for quick "time-remaining" reference and easy underwater reading. The case measures an impressive 40 mm in diameter, by 45 mm lug-to-lug, by 13 mm thick (including the crystal). The brushed stainless steel of the case and the chunky lugs speak to the style of the era and make it beefy enough to stand up to decades of use.
Like all Caliber 218 Accutrons, it is set by the crown at the 4 o'clock position and has a date feature at the 3 o'clock position. The original Accutron logo crown is rotated in its "home" position in order to quick set the date, then pulled out to set the time. A cyclops window on the underside of the crystal makes it easier to read the date, shown in red numbers on a white background, without creating a bump that sticks up from the surface.
The black matte dial provides excellent contrast to the lumed hour markers and hands, now at a great light shade of cream. The triangle marker at the 12 o'clock position matches the arrow marker of the rotating bezel. Crosshairs extend from the center to the triangle and rectangular markers at 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. Below the 12 o'clock position is the word "Accutron" in applied stainless steel lettering. Above the 6 o'clock position is the model designation: "Deep Sea 666 Feet" (earning this one its "Devil Diver" nickname!) Around the edge are white minute/second markings, making it easy to count the seconds with the "Tuning Fork" stainless steel seconds hand that exhibits the recognizable Accutron sweep motion. Please note that there is some dial damage along the outer edge minute track at the 1 and 6 o'clock positions, but it is not noticeable at first glance and does not detract from the overall appearance of the watch. A small chip in the bezel at the ~39 minute mark is also present, but primarily only visible from the side.
On its screw-down back is a light engraving with the initials "E. V. C.". Beneath that is the serial number and the designation "M9" indicating that this watch was made in 1969. Luckily, our watchmakers having it humming along just like it did when it came from the Bulova factory about 55 years ago! And it could be humming on your wrist! We warranty all of our watches for one year for parts and labor so that you may buy with confidence.
Longines is a well-known Swiss luxury brand, with its watchmaking history dating back all the way to 1832. Founded by Auguste Agassiz in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, they started humbly but grew to establish a factory and mechanized production by 1852 when Ernest Francillon took over operations. Thus began the ability to produce high-precision movements and to ensure the brand's now well-earned reputation for quality.
By the late 1800s, Longines was innovating in order to keep up with their American watchmaking counterparts. They began producing their first in-house chronograph movements, which were adopted as the official time-keepers for competitive sporting events. This notoriety launched the brand into the upper tier of Swiss manufacturers known around the world. In the 1920s, Longines began producing wrist watches for nautical and aeronautical navigation, most famously collaborating with US Navy Officer P.V.H. Weems.
Here, we have an early Longines wrist watch from 1928, not produced for navigation, but for the well-dressed gentleman of the time. It is a spectacular, unusual example of an Art Deco gentleman's watch for a few reasons: its large rectangular size, its sterling silver case, the patina and style of the dial, and the quality of the movement.
To start with, this watch measures 28 mm in width (not including the crown), by 43 mm lug-to-lug, by 12 mm thick (at the center, including the crystal). At the time, manufacturers were wanting something more than a round wristwatch, but most didn't develop rectangular movements until the late 1930s to early 1940s. They realized that they could change the case shape and size by expanding the case outward while still housing a smaller round movement. This one is a giant watch for this time period, when most round men's watches were around 32 mm (or smaller in diameter), and rectangular pieces were often much narrower. It has quite the presence on the wrist, even today, with its slightly curved case and solid, wide lugs. A 22 mm strap is almost unheard of for vintage wristwatches, but we have this one fitted with a black leather feed-through style with red stitching for extra punch. The curved crystal with bevels along all four edges tops it off!
Next of note is the sterling silver case, as the 0.925 stamp and "Rampant Bear" hallmark on the inside of the case back indicate. Sterling cases are rare to find, as they were more expensive than their gold-filled counterparts and later fell out of favor for stainless steel or other metals. It is usually only found in older, high-end pieces from luxury brands, making for wonderful dress watches with a lot of warmth and shine. This watch truly speaks to its 1920s era.
Now onto the dial -- talk about Art Deco style! The ornate Arabic numerals have so much personality, and pair perfectly with the "Longines" logo of the time. The 12 and 6 are enlarged and sit alone, at the top and bottom, with the other numerals stacked along the sides. And, because this is such a large watch, the sub-seconds bit resides entirely above the 6 o'clock position, leaving the numerals and minute tracks uninterrupted. It bears the same rectangular shape as the case, reinforcing the geometric appeal of the piece. Blued steel leaf-shaped hands contrast beautifully against the warm cream patina of the dial. For a watch about 100 years old, the dial is not perfect, but it wears its age beautifully.
Last but certainly not least, is the movement, a Caliber 11.84N manual wind. This movement was used from 1899 onward, in both pocket and wrist watches that were stem wound and set. This was a high-quality movement from the time, featuring a bimetallic balance assembly, which creates stability in the watch's timing accuracy across fluctuating temperatures. In addition, the movement has 15 jewels and a healthy 34 hour power reserve.
A beautiful example of watchmaking history that is still ticking away today like it did when it first left the factory! Our one year warranty will just add to your confidence that this is a piece that will continue to provide excellent service for years to come.
Six nephews joined their uncle Ramon Fernando Cuervo at his watchmaking shop in Havana circa 1882, first establishing the "Cuervo y Sobrinos" brand. It soon became a world standard for watchmakers from New York, to Rome, and Paris. Havana was the place to see and be seen in the 1940s and 50s. It was the lush watering hole and vacation spot for movie stars, artists, intellectuals, and bon vivants from all over the globe. For this well-heeled crowd, Cuervo y Sobrinos made their own "jeweler's contract" watches which housed movements from the most famous watchmaking brands in the world. Luminaries like Hemingway, Clark Gable, Einstein, Caruso, Churchill, Gable, and Neruda are but a few of the visitors Cuervo y Sobrinos boasted over the years. We have seen precious few of these watches coming out of South America and Cuba made by the brand, and this one is a chronograph to boot!
The silvered two-tone dial really makes its presence known as does the red central chronograph seconds hand. The silvered dial has a darker grey chapter ring, on which sit applied gold Arabic numerals. The numerals catch the light, creating a great contrast to the dial, and pair nicely with the gold tapered hands. Around the chapter ring lies the "railroad track" minute ring, and then the red tachymeter scale, gradated from 60-1000. The constant seconds and recorded minutes subsidiary dials sit at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions, respectively. The dial is signed "Cuervo Y Sobrinos" under the twelve o'clock position and "Habana" just above the 6 o'clock position.
The stainless steel case measures 39 mm (not including the crown), by 50 mm lug to lug, by 16 mm thick (including the crystal). This is a good sized watch for its age! It bears the signature and logo of the brand on the case back and sports curved and stepped lugs that really make the overall look just spectacular. Rectangular pushers add to the style of the piece -- the top pusher starts the chronograph function, and the bottom pusher stops and resets the hands.
The movement is a 17 jewel Swiss beauty that is winding, setting and keeping time just as it did circa 1949. This is a fantastic and rare chronograph that can be yours! Our one year warranty for parts and labor will allow you to buy with confidence.
This watch is what Gruen called an "Air Flight". It was originally made for Pan Am pilots to have a quick reference to a 24-hour day for flight time, or military time. We love these "jump hour" Gruens! When the hands reach 1 pm, all the numerals jump to a 24-hour format and then jump back again to a 12-hour format at 1 am -- see the video below to see what we mean! This is accomplished with a rotating disc underneath the main dial. The gold painted Arabic numerals appear in beveled diamond- and circle-shaped windows in the main dial.
And what a dial it is! A beautiful silvered dial in the center is a fabulous backdrop for the dauphine lume hands, with a dark gray painted outer circle that allows the numbers in the windows to really pop. The red central sweep second hand adds just a touch of color and makes it easy to read. "Gruen Precision" is written beneath the Gruen logo at the 12 o'clock position. "17 Jewels" is written at the 6 o'clock position with "Swiss Made" sitting at the very bottom. Faded plots of lume sit to the outside of the windows, within the outer minute/second track.
The 17 jewel, caliber N510SS movement is in excellent condition and is winding, setting, and keeping time like the fine timepiece it was designed to be! The mainspring has a 42 hour power reserve and is manually wound. Made in Switzerland, these Gruen watches have the "Precision" name as a testament to the quality of their production.
The beautiful movement is housed in a chrome body case with a stainless steel back for wearing longevity. It measures 35 mm wide (not including the crown), by 42 mm lug to lug, by 10 mm thick (including the crystal). The case does show wear, as many well-loved watches from this time period do. But, we think the quality of the movement and dial still make this a watch worthy of any wrist!
Circa 1960, this is a watch to make your heart sing. When the numerals change at 1 pm or 1 am, it is a real event that always has our customers exclaiming their delight. We buy every one of these that we can find in good condition because our clients just love the dial action and how nice these watches look on the wrist. We don't have these in stock very often and they usually find a good home within a few weeks. We would love to show it to you! Remember, all of our timepieces come with our famous one year warranty for parts and labor so that you may buy with confidence.
Elgin produced watches in Elgin, Illinois (a Chicago suburb), for over 100 years. They were the largest and most prolific of the American manufacturers and the "Lord Elgin" was their premiere product. It was produced in 19, 21, and 23 jewels. This particular Elgin "Black Knight" is very cool watch in more ways than one. First and foremost, the 21 jewel movement is a thing of mechanical beauty. Second, the "fish scale" black dial is an unusual textural element that adds a lot of interest, highlighted by the original conical crystal. Third, the stylized numerals are very unusual, and fourth, the curved hooded lugs are a very handsome finishing touch!
We also have the original box which is a thing of joy all by itself. It is lined with burgundy velvet and satin. It still even has the original "Black Knight" label and "What you should know about your Elgin" pamphlet to complete the set. A rare find these days!
If you take a look at the "Zoom-In" photos you can almost see the point at the top of the crystal in the side shot. This pointed crystal gives the watch a very futuristic look. You will also notice that there is a symbol just below the Elgin name and this means the watch is fitted with an unbreakable "Durapower" mainspring....quite a feat back in the day. In short this is one killer wristwatch from the 1950s.
The case is 14k yellow gold filled (as stamped on the back) and measures 28 mm in diameter by 38 mm lug to lug, by 11 mm thick (to the top of the conical crystal). This handsome timepiece is in fantastic original condition, running like the proverbial top, and just waiting for a man's wrist to adorn. Remember all of our timepieces come with our famous one year warranty for parts and labor, so that you may buy with confidence.
The Wakmann Watch Company was a distributor of luxury watches in Portugal circa 1943 but made the move to New York in 1946, and began both importing and manufacturing high-end quality watches with an emphasis on chronograph production. Their reputation grew when the American public realized that their watches were well made and very reliable. Their mantra was to provide "high-quality professional timepieces, combining modern design choices with dependable distribution to deliver quality products, backed by innovation, research and improved technologies".
At this time there were substantial duties imposed on imported watches in order to bolster the American manufacturers. Wakmann saw an opportunity in their industry by partnering with Breitling, who supplied them with watch components, which were then assembled and sold within the US. Their success would lead to them supplying timepieces to the US military and other professional applications, and an eventual Breitling buyout. Wakmann already manufactured aircraft cockpit clocks that complied with various US military specifications and was an official US supplier to the war effort, and continued to supply clocks to Douglass, Lockheed and several other airline companies post-war.
This wonderful military wristwatch has such a great look that you will want to strap it on the minute you get your hand on it. It has a 17 jewel automatic movement with incabloc shock protection that is running like a champ. The stainless steel case measures 38 mm in diameter (not including the crown), by 44 mm lug to lug, by 12 mm thick (including the crystal). The dial and hands have aged to that perfect mellow patina that is so desirable. It also sports a date window at the 3 o'clock position with numbers that alternate in red and black. The wonderful "lollipop" sweep second hand catches your eye immediately. This is a watch that you will be proud to wear. Our head watchmaker has it winding, setting, and keeping time just as it did around 75 years ago when it made its debut. Don't miss it...it is the only one like this that we have had the pleasure to own in our 43 years in business!
Gruen was a premier watch manufacturer and was perhaps one of the companies that you wanted to emulate if you were in the business of making wristwatches. Everything they put their hand to was first rate. They were the inventors of the "Curvex," a revolutionary curved watch from the late 1930s. Gruen held the patent on the curved movement, but they also made made fine timepieces that contained flat movements, as well. This Gruen is one of those. It has the slightly curved shape to the case and crystal that gives the appearance of a curved watch, but with a flat movement. This is a very handsome Gruen that would look fabulous on a man or lady today.
The yellow gold-filled case with a stainless steel case back measures 22 mm in width (not including the crown), by 25 mm lug to lug, by 9 mm thick (including the crystal). The stainless steel back is for wearing longevity, assuring it won't wear through with daily use. The "Veri-Thin" designation references the fact that this is a slim watch, owing to its specially engineered movement, and will easily fit under shirt cuffs. Its matching "Gruen" marked crown sets off the look.
This watch also has a spectacular rose gold dial with yellow gold applied Arabic numerals that really catch the eye! The sub-seconds bit at the 6 o'clock position is a rectangular shape that echoes the case shape. Inside is circle track with radiating lines, making the seconds easier to read. Above the seconds bit is the word "Precision", a marking frequently used by Gruen to indicate the quality of their movements.
The movement is a Swiss 17 jewel workhorse that will give you a lifetime of service, if you take care of it. Our one-year warranty for parts and labor will give you the peace of mind that this wonderful Gruen wristwatch will perform just as well as it did in 1945.
Waltham was a wonderful and prolific watch manufacturer located in Waltham, MA. They were originally in business from 1851 to 1957, in various iterations. Their earlier efforts, circa 1850 in Roxbury, MA began with the Howard, Dennison & Davis name. Later iterations were: the Boston Watch Company, Appleton, Tracey & Co., American Waltham, and finally the Waltham Watch Company. They were one of the giants of the industry and second largest only to Elgin.
However, this Waltham is a 1975 iteration from Swiss makers who purchased the name and expanded the US imports and production, making Waltham the third largest in US sales. It exudes 70s style and personality, with its brushed stainless steel cushion case and light blue minute track. The case is a great size to have in a vintage piece, measuring 37 mm in diameter (not including the crown), by 43 mm lug-to-lug, by 13 mm thick (including the crystal).
It is also packed with features that make it a great everyday piece. Most notable are the day and date complications, which are in opposition to one another at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions, and helpfully labeled in rectangular windows with white backgrounds. The day changes with the hands, but the date can be quick-set by pulling the crown out to the furthest position. The red central sweep seconds hand catches the eye and allows for easy timing when paired with the bi-directional rotating black bezel. The blue inner minute track contrasts the second hand, and is interrupted by the applied stainless steel hour markers. The markers stand up from the dial, with small plots of lume on the outside of each one in a beautiful cream color. It is an interesting dial, for sure!
The self-winding (automatic) movement keeps the watch wound throughout the day for ease of wearing and setting, although it can still be wound via the crown. It is a 17 jewel Swiss movement with Incabloc shock absorbing springs in the balance assembly.
The condition of this watch is near perfect and our head watchmaker has it ticking like the proverbial top. It is a great watch for the dough and our one-year warranty for parts and labor will allow you to buy with confidence.
Rotary is a lesser-known brand in the US, but it traces its roots back to Switzerland, like so many brands of the time and is better known in Europe. The Rotary watch brand was founded in 1895 by Moise Dreyfuss in the Swiss town of La Chaux de Fonds. But, in the 1920s, Rotary began exporting watches to England and their popularity was such that they even became the official watch supplier for the British Army in 1940.
Rotary's founder was dedicated to creating beautiful watches with timeless elegance. His attention to detail and insistence on first class personal service ensured the business grew quickly. Their logo, the "winged wheel", was introduced in 1925, and is what you see on the dial of this watch.
And what a dial it is! It has been perfectly preserved, with the lume on the Arabic Numerals and in the blued-steel skeletonized hands having aged to that mellow yellow color we search for, but rarely find. The dial center is a matte silver and the chapter ring is a matte white, creating the striking "two tone" design. A gold ring encompasses the numerals and seconds bit, with a delineated minute track at the outside. At the 6 o'clock position sits the good sized seconds bit, above which is the designation "17 jewels". The combination and originality is just spectacular!
This particular Rotary watch is in such nice condition and our head watch maker has pointed out that the movement in this model features a solid gold escape wheel and fork -- a rarely seen combination! It is a manual wind, 17 jewel movement, with incabloc shock protection (as designated on the case back).
The stainless steel case measures 30.5 mm in diameter (not including the crown), by 37 mm lug to lug, by 9 mm thick (including the crystal). It is in great condition, showing only very minor handling wear. The case back is engraved with its other claims of "waterproof" and "non magnetic". It is a screw-down back that seals beautifully.
This is the only Rotary watch we currently have, and it is a rare piece to find in such great condition. The 30's style is something to marvel at, and with our one year warranty you can be assured that it keeps time just like it did over 90 years ago!
Stunning and rare are two terms you might use to describe this Hamilton, 10K yellow gold-filled, "Seckron" Duo Dial Doctor's Wristwatch. This design was made for doctors with an extra large second hand that made it easy to read and take a pulse, for example, as opposed to a conventional subsidiary second hands. Because it had a limited target market, it was sold in small numbers and therefore is quite scarce today.
This particular watch is in excellent original condition, something that is rarely found in today's market. Two case styles were introduced, one in 1936 that had a rigidly rectangular case that was prone to wear at the corners and then this one in 1941, with a slightly curved case and a more streamlined shape that was right on target for fashion of the time. This version is actually scarcer of the two due to the start of WWII, which curtailed its production. The 10K yellow gold-filled case is in great condition overall, measuring 21 mm wide (not including the crown) by 42mm lug to lug, by 9mm thick (including the crystal). The subtle lines of the stepped case draw the eye and emphasize the length of the piece.
The gorgeous original dial shows a great patina, giving the watch a sophisticated appeal. The stylized Arabic numerals are easy to read, and pair nicely with the blued steel hands. The seconds bit below is in a circle design, with a "railroad track" ring to mark each second and the 10s of seconds distinguished with Arabic numerals. Radiating lines extend from the numbers to fill the rest of the rectangular space. This is an unusual look that you certainly won't find on other watches of the era!
Inside, the manual wind, 17 jewel movement is running strong and keeping excellent time. This watch employs the caliber 980 A movement, which features special gearing for the dial train. Hamilton was widely considered the best American watchmaker, so this is a high-quality piece that will still give you reliable service for years to come. Like everything else in the vintage and antique world, condition is everything!!!
This one is the nicest original Hamilton "Seckron" we have had in over 40 years. I think that the original condition of the dial is what seduces you on first glance. It has the patina of the age and speaks to what this watch must have seen during its life here since 1940. If it could only speak!
Slide chains used to be worn by Victorian ladies to secure and display their pendant watches. Doubled over the neck, these chains were very long and featured a "slide" ornament that adapted the chain to their blouse's neckline. Given most women are no longer wearing slide chains, innovating jewelry makers preserved the beautiful slides and repurposed them in jewelry pieces like this bracelet!
The bracelet features 12 yellow gold-filled slides of various shapes and semi-precious gemstones, strung on 2 chains and spaced by round, ribbed beads. The center slide is a beautiful lozenge-shaped piece with a "flower" of garnets. The other slides contain pearls, opals, diamonds, synthetic rubies, and peridot gems. There is one small pink gem missing, but it does not detract from the beauty of the piece. Each slide is a unique shape and design, lending a lot of visual interest and speaking to its 130 year history. It is finished with a ring clasp, and the bracelet measures about 8" in length.
The previous owners of this piece had it appraised in 2000, and thoughtfully provided the original appraisal paperwork for us. See the image below for the full description of the bracelet and to see that this fabulous piece can be yours at a great price!
Fields of flowers are depicted in glass micro mosaic on these fabulous tiered brass earrings! Larger purple flowers with individual petals are surrounded by tiny multi-color flowers in blue, yellow, red, white, and teal. Minuscule green leaves are nestled among the flowers in the oval setting and surrounded by a rim of black glass. A surprising yellow and red checkerboard surrounds the scene to accent the piece with some flair! Each mosaic is unique, and they form an interesting pair with enough detail to draw the eye!
The brass oval frames sit proud of the wider bezels that are adorned with a swirl and flower pattern. The ovals measure 1.1" tall by 0.9" wide, with the mosaic being 0.85" by 0.65" within. The earrings themselves are about 2.5" long to the bottom of the ear wire. The three tiered pieces are joined together with individual wires with brass balls, giving them a lot of movement and a delicate overall feel. The findings for pierced ears mean that they are easy to wear in the modern wardrobe!
Likely from the 1940's, these earrings are made with the intricate detailing that evokes the decadence of the Victorian period. The "Made in Italy" stamps on the backs confirm their origin, and they are presented within a white clamshell box with a "Ricordo di Roma" satin lining. These are exquisite pieces that would make a fabulous gift or treasured piece for anyone who appreciates fine detailing and European craftsmanship.